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Fendi’s leitmotiv was ruching – a chance for it to display its superlative workmanship. Fendi’s bags are so original and sought after that you can only sympathise with the catwalk outfit that has to compete with them. The ruched burgundy satin and pastel leather doublets that formed a surprisingly large section of this show put up a good fight but in the end, however clever and polished the execution – no.

 Of far wider appeal are the ruched artist smocks, in peacock blue or damson cottons, worn as dresses or blouses tucked into shin-length pleated skirts. You have to be tall and willowy to carry off the later combination. Worn with a pair of slim trousers however, these luxurious cotton voluminous blouses represent an easy, glamorous mainstay for next summer and are bound to be much emulated.



There were long bomber jackets in olive leather, leather plaiting on khaki dresses and slim harem pants with enough of Fendi's handwriting to elevate them to luxury wear - leather plaited trims, lacy laser effects or columns of satin-covered buttons - but not, for the most part, so much that they became them unwieldy.


 As for those hit bags, the By The Way and The Peekaboo are stronger than ever, in - yes - ruched leather or dip-dyed, with long straps studded with leather flowers, they take the art of the bag to a new level and doubtless, a new price point.